The Leutz model C is a 8 tube superheterodyne receiver, which was manufactured during  the years 1923 and 1924, was designed as a scaled down version the the earlier model L. There were some changes and modifications that was done to the model C, while it was on the market, but the receivers basic design stayed the same. The earlier model Cs were fitted with RCA UV-1716 IF transformers until RCA stopped selling them to IES and, subsequently, sued EIS for patent infringements on the superhet design. EIS responded by designing and manufacturing their own brand of IF transformers which was named the "Model C Radio Frequency Transformer".  It was a iron core transformer designed to resonate at 47 kHz and was used extensively in the model C and the later model C-7.
    I purchased this receiver from the late Walter Sanders estate in 2011. Walt acquired this receiver from an antique mall in Mt. Horeb, Wisconsin  in 1995. I completely disassembled this receiver down to the nuts and bolts, cleaned and polished everything, repaired one open IF transformer, replaced one audio transformer, reproduced the 4.5 volt Eveready C bias battery and reassembled everything back together again.

Tube Line Up:
01A or 00A.....1st. Detector
01A.....Oscillator
01A......1st. Amplifier
01A.....2nd. IF Amplifier
01A.....3rd. IF Amplifier
01A.....2nd. Detector
01A.....1st Audio
01A or 12A.....2nd. Audio

Frequency Range:
BC...550 Khz to 1500 Khz
I.F.Freq....47 kHz

Power Source:
Battery  A.....+6 Volts
              B.....+45 Volts
              B.....+90 Volts
              C.....-4.5 Volts

Dementions:
Hight.....40 inches
Wedth.....8 inches
Depth.....8 inches

Schematic and information

  This is what the model C intermediate frequency transformer looks like from the inside. The promary and secondary coils are wound around an iron bar and mounted in beeswax. The four contact posts are mearly screwed in place and can easly become loose causing breakage of the wire leading to the post. Dissassembly will be required to repair any broken wires. Some transformers have thier side walls nailed in place but others only have thier side walls wedged in place. The latter is easier to open in case repairs are required. A good suction cap may be suffecient in pulling away the side wall. If the wall is difficult to remove, freezing it with a freezing spray should reduce it's diameter just enough to make removal easier. Another method of removing the side wall is to carefully remove the top ID metal tag and drill a 1/4 inch hole on the top. Once the hole is made, a rod can be inserted and push away the side wall. Be careful not to let the drill drop down once it drills all the way through the shell because it could hit the windingings of the transformer and do serious damage.

  This is the face of the receiver's volt meter. Later versions of the volt meter featured a five tap switch to monitor the four filiment lines and one B+ line.

  This is the dial face of the receiver's current meter. During proper operation, the meter's reading should fall within the shaded red area.